In today’s era of instantly being able to eliminate red-eye on any home computer, digital picture frames that transition images like a screen-saver, and the ability to print high-quality photos any just about any ink-jet printer,  the classic picture frame seems like a low-tech object. Indeed, the picture frame’s history dates back thousands of years to a time when the fastest way to travel was by horseback. With only 6 major components, it is a seemingly simple, straightforward object not deserving much attention. However, despite all this, the first time someone walks into a frame shop, they are immediately overwhelmed with all the options.  Even professional framers have differing options from everything from what kind of mat board to use, to whether acrylic is a suitable replacement for frame glass to whether an online company can produce the same quality that a frame shop can. So that the first-time buyer may become familiar with the basic elements of a picture frame and begin making contributions of their own, this article reviews each of the major components of a picture frame, and associated options of each.  

The major components of a frame are shown in figure 1.  As seen after hung on the wall, these are 1) the actual picture frame which can be made of wood or metal, 2) a protective transparent cover (glazing), 3) colored and/or textured mat board, 4) backing board onto which the artwork is affixed and 5) an optional protective sheet to keep dust out.

The Frame
Today, quality picture frames are made out of either wood or metal and available in a number of shapes.  In both cases, before they are frames, the material is a stick of molding that is purchased in usually 8, 10 or 12 foot lengths. The major difference between picture frame molding and molding found in a home improvement store is that the former has a rabbet (pronounced “rabbit”).  The rabbet is a grove that is cut into the molding into which all other frame components will fit. This very important notch is usually between 7/8 t o 1 ½ inches thick.  Figure 2 shows a side cut-out of a frame, including the rabbet.  Of course, without this rabbet, there would be no way to hold the framing components in place.

Quality picture frame molding is available in either wood or metal.  Plastic molding is available and although very inexpensive, it is prone to warping and cracking, and very difficult to cut. Generally, during the frame selection process, the framer will have a fairly good idea if they are looking for either metal or wood frames as the artwork will often dictate a natural choice. This decision to use wood or metal is a personal one and each has advantages and drawbacks which should be considered in each framing project. Below, the major advantages of each material type are listed:

                                    Advantages Wood                                                  Advantages Metal
                           ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                               • Generally available in many more colors                • Has a classic, traditional look
                               • Colors are more vibrant and sharp                        • Has a warmer, more inviting look                 
                               • Generally, has a bolder look                                  • Molding comes in more shapes and styles besides flat and round
                               • Can be great for displaying B&W photos                • Available in many more finishes and stains
                               • Have more of modern / industrial look                  • Resists warping over time
                               • Resists warping over time                                    • Less prone to condensation in humid climates

Once the framer has settled on either wood or metal, the next decision is which type of actual mold to use.  When making this decision, in addition to the actual artwork being framed, a consideration to take into account is where the artwork will be displayed.  The objective is to find a frame molding that works well with the environment and décor of its surroundings. For example, a metal frame displaying black and white photography in a hotel lobby or coffee shop can look quite attractive. The same frame next to an elaborate wood fire mantel will probably look awkward. The decision regarding what kind of frame to use is ultimately what looks right and the buyer should play around with many options.  There are no hard rules in framing; only rules of thumb, which are sometimes broken with fantastic results.  

 

Making a frame requires cutting the 4 pieces molding at equal lengths at 45 degree angles and joining each of them.  There are various methods of joining. For wood frames, these include routing, gluing and nailing.  The most common and strongest joining method is a combination of glue and using a nailing from the back of the frame. Figure 3 shows a very nice nailing job of a wood frame that was done with a professional top-of-the-line pneumatic nailer from Holland. Of course the home framer will probably not want to spend thousands of dollars on such a piece of equipment and will probably settle on a less costly option.

Metal frames are easier to assemble, requiring only a screwdriver and the appropriate hardware. Metal molding is also easier to cut than wood as it is less prone to chipping.

Glazing
The transparent front of a frame is made of either glass or acrylic (Plexiglas™) is called glazing. Its primary purpose is to protect the artwork from dust and damage during handling.  Glazing also minimizes large humidity and temperature changes, which hasten the degradation of any organic materials, which in this case include the artwork and matting.

Museum glass differs from the glass found in home windows in two significant ways.  First, it is much thinner, available in 2mm and 3mm thicknesses (house glass is more in the 8mm range). Second, it is made with superior transparency qualities than home glass, thereby ensuring that the artwork is not distorted by the galss..

Arcyrlic, which is best known under its trade name Plexiglas™ is a relative newcomer to the framing world. There are many traditional framers who will not consider this material getting anywhere close to their frame. However, pleixglas has one major advantage: it does not break! This is a very important consideration when framing valuable works of art (imagine the danger of framing the Mona Lisa in glass!). The disadvantage of acrylic is that it costs more than museum glass and it scratches very easily.

In addition to regular Plexiglas, within each of the two glazing types, there are several options available to the framer. These are:

• Anti-glare treated
• UV-reducing
• Both UV-reducing and anti-glare treated

Each is available in anti-reflective coating and UV-resistance.  The anti-reflective glass is treated with xxx to roughen up the surface of the glass. The benefit of this treatment is that the rougher surface will break up and disperse light as it hits the glazing, thereby reducing glare.  The disadvantage of anti-reflective glass is that the xxx makes the glazing look hazy.  This haziness is not readily apparent when pressed close to artwork. However, from about 1cm distance, the haziness becomes apparent. This is a concern if many mats are used or if a creating a shadow box.  In fact, we do not recommend using anti-glare glazing for shadow box framing.

UV protection is a coating that is put on frames to block out any harmful Ultra-violet (UV) rays.  This is a good option if the frame will be placed in a room that will receive direct sunlight as the UV rays may discolor the artwork over time.

Finally, a customer has the option of purchasing either glass or acrylic glazing that is both anti-glare and UV protected.  Of course it goes without saying that the more special the glazing, the more expensive it is. For example, anti-glare and UV reducing glass is twice as much as regular glass. In the United States, the dominant manufacturer of both glass and Plexiglas is TrueVue® headquartered in McCook, Illinois. This is what is available in most frame shops.

Matting
In its simplest from, matting (also called “mat board”) is a paper-type product that is placed between the glazing and the artwork. Its purpose is twofold. First, it separates the artwork from the glass, which will ensure that the two do not stick to each other over time. Second, when well chosen, the mat will highlight the artwork.

Mat selection is a prime example of the never-ending framing discussion.  For starters, a piece can be framed with a single mat or with many mats, depending on a host of factors, least of which is personal taste.  Second, mats come in a variety of quality grades and even within these grades there are a host of choices. If interested in learning more about matting, we recommend reading an entire article dedicated to picture frame matting.  

Mounting Board
Once the frame and the mat have been selected, the hard part is done, if for no other reason because the next two items are not visible once the frame is hung on the wall. The mounting board (also called backing board) is the material to which the artwork is attached. When viewing a frame hanging on a wall, the mounting board is not visible because it is covered by the artwork and the matting.

In the past, most any cardboard- or wood-based material was used for framing.  The major disadvantage of this is these raw materials a both very acids and will eventually ruin artwork.  Today, treated products are available that are not as acidic and suitable for framing.

Framing grade mounting board is available in 3 basic categories which are:

• A regular mildly treated board
• An acid free board
• A self-adhesive board.  

The regular grade board is suitable for most framing projects and will easily last over 20 years before showing signs of decomposition.  The acid-free board will preserve artwork longer and should be used with valuable or heirloom items.  Self-adhesive mat board is great for mounting poster or digital pictures, both of which are easily replaced.  However, it should not be used for artwork of any value since once attached to the mounting board because it is impossible to remove without incurring significant damage to the artwork.

The Protective Cover
The last part of a frame is a protective cover. While not used in all framing projects, this is a lint free paper that is affixed to the outside of the frame with double sided framing tape to prevent dust from entering from the back of the frame.  In addition, it also protects the artwork from sudden humidity changes which will have an adverse affect on any organic materials such as paper, paint or graphite.

These are the 6 major components of a frame.  When gong through the frame-selection process, it important to remember that in framing there are only rules-of thumb, each of which can be broken if it produces favorable results. We would recommend trying various options in every framing project. Even if things do not look good, it will give the framer experience which will inevitably be used in future projects.

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